Akko - June 28, 2011

staircase with colored stones and the "evil eye"

schoolgirls walking in Akko

interior of Uri Buri fish restaurant - Akko

boys playing near water - Akko

mosque - Old Akko

headscarves for sale - Akko marketplace

horse and carriage - through Akko

I decided to venture outside of Tel Aviv and drive north to the city of Acre (Akko). It has been a long time since I drove that far north but today's a beautiful day to take that drive. After an early breakfast, Fage yogurt with fruit, I decided to take the beautiful coast road, driving alongside the sea most of the way -- through Caesarea, Netanya and other coastal resorts. Old Akko is genuine -- it hasn't been gentrified or reborn as an artist's colony. Akko was built in the 18th century on top of the Crusaders' city. The underground corridors were once the home of knights and inhabitants. Mosaic-adorned mosques, minarets, and Turkish baths reflect the influence of the Ottoman empire. The town isn't filled with tourists; instead there is real life here -- marketplaces selling spices, shoes, clothing and necessities for those who reside there. Akko has been a principal port for 2,000 years. Watching horses riding through the streets, watching residents atop staircases just looking out to the horizon, seeing teenage boys playing on the cliffs hanging over the water are just a few of the scenes that I encountered here. Particularly noticeable was a staircase with embedded rocks, including the blue "evil eye" so common in the Middle East. There are several restaurants from which to choose along the coast, but I chose to go to the fish restaurant, Uri Buri. I ordered delicious grilled fish along with the usual mezze of appetizers, including eggplant, hummus and tehina. What struck me most about Akko was its authenticity, certainly refreshingly uncommon in travel these days.

Tel Aviv - June 27, 2011

Dan Hotel Beach - Tel Aviv

view of Marina - Hilton Beach - Tel Aviv

amazing sunset - Tel Aviv beach

beautiful beach - Tel Aviv

man walking along beach - Tel Aviv

beach - Tel Aviv

After having spent the weekend in Jerusalem, I was ready to return to Tel Aviv. The warm breezes of the hills of Jerusalem made me think of spending some time at the sea. I drove the TA-Jerusalem highway in less than an hour and was on my way to the shore. Parking is always a hassle at the beach, but I drove into an underground lot along the row of hotels lining the seaside. Residents of Tel Aviv can be seen at the beach any time of day or well into the evening. Of course, summers bring out young people, families and children so it can be difficult to find a spot in the sand. For a small fee, one can reserve a lounge chair and an umbrella. Bathrooms are easily accessible. Often groups of people are clustered together, young and old. The sun is strong, so sunscreen and hats are a must. Ice cream vendors and trinket sellers abound. It's definitely a lively scene. People of all ages can be seeing playing "matkot", a game similar to table tennis without the table. The clatter of balls against wooden rackets is heard everywhere. It seems to be the national summer game of Israel at the seashore.

outside of Jerusalem - June 25, 2011

inscription outside walls of Church of St. John the Baptist - Ein Kerem

entrance gates to Church of St. John the Baptist

minaret - Ein Kerem

Mary's Spring - Ein Kerem

lunch in Abu Ghosh

Crusader Church - Abu Ghosh

gardens - Crusader Church - Abu Ghosh

exterior of Church of the Crusader - Abu Ghosh

Saturdays in Israel are the Sabbath, a day of rest. In Tel Aviv, that means meeting friends for brunch, going to the beach, catching up on sleep or doing whatever. In Jerusalem it might mean praying at the Kotel or at synagogue, then enjoying lunch, napping and praying again. On a bright, summer June Sabbath, I decided to drive from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem and stop in two interesting spots that I had never visited. My first stop was the Arab-Israeli town of Abu Ghosh, about 6 miles west of Jerusalem on the Tel Aviv-Jerusalem Highway. After driving up a windy road, I came upon the Crusader Church, one of the best preserved Crusader remains in Israel. Built in 1140 and destroyed in 1187, it was acquired by the French government in 1899. Crusaders have identified the site as the biblical Emmanus. The gardens of the Church were in full bloom with impeccably mowed grass and colorful bouganvilla. The building itself was somewhat imposing but the doors were open so I quietly made my way inside. The interior was beautifully painted in subtle tones and had neatly arranged rows of seating. There were stairs leading down to what once may have been a well. A monk dressed in white robes was singing hymns to a few listeners. It was quite awe inspiring and definitely made an impression on me.
After roaming the grounds, I decided it was time for lunch. After all, Abu Ghosh is famously
known as the "Hummus Capital of the World". I stopped at the Abu Ghosh restaurant. I was greeted with warm hospitality at the Abu Ghosh Restaurant and sat down to a filling meal of....hummus, pita and falafel. This was certainly going to be my main meal of the day!!
After lunch, I continued my drive to Jerusalem with another stop in Ein Kerem. According to Christian tradition, John the Baptist was born in Ein Kerem. Many of the visitors today are pilgrims from around the world. Ein Kerem means "Spring of the Vineyard". It is an ancient village of the Jerusalem District and is now a neighborhood in SW Jerusalem. It was one of the few depopulated Arab localities which survived the war with most of the buildings intact. Over the years, the artsy atmosphere has attracted a population of artisans and craftsmen.
According to Christian tradition, which is where Elizabeth, the mother of John the Baptist, miraculously became pregnant and gave birth to John the Baptist. Tradition teaches that during her pregnancy, Elizabeth was visited by Mary, who was pregnant with Jesus. The two women met beside the village well and Mary drink from its cool waters. That place is now called Mary's Well. Many pilgrims come to drink from the well and take the holy water away with them in bottles.

Tel Aviv - June 22, 2011

book sale on Ibn Gvirol - Tel Aviv

Memorial to Yitzhak Rabin - Tel Aviv

typical apartment building - Tel Aviv

I decided to relax in the area near my apartment today. Sometimes it's just feel right to lounge around and explore what's in the neighborhood. This was one of those days I walked to the Kikar Hamedina for breakfast. I enjoy having yogurt and muesli, a staple on Israeli breakfast menus. After my honey-topped breakfast, I headed over to Rechov Ibn Gvirol, a main north south thoroughfare in the city. Lots of small shops, cafes and business are on this street which has recently been completely redone with palm trees and chairs. Many city and governmental offices are located on Ibn Gvirol so there are usually lots of people working, strolling and meandering in the neighborhood. Many of the apartment buildings look alike in Tel Aviv. Built in the "Bauhaus" style, most do not have parking garages. Most apartments have balconies and usually have shutters to keep out the hot summer Mediterranean sunshine.

I continue on my path on Ibn Gvirol and pass the memorial to the late Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin. An eternal flame and Hebrew inscription mark the exact location where the Prime Minister was shot in 2004. There are photos of Rabin depicting his tenure in the IDF as well as his political career. It is indeed fitting that this memorial is set along a busy walking area of a major boulevard so that people pass it on their routine walk.
Not far from the memorial I saw throngs of people. Because I don't read Hebrew, I couldn't figure out why there was such a large gathering. After inquiring, I realized that it was a book sale. People of all ages were gathered for this outdoor event, even with threatening clouds in the sky. I didn't notice any signs or books in English so I decided to pass on this outdoor event. One never knows what you can experience on a stroll through the neighborhood.

Tel Aviv - June 21, 2011

bar along walkway @ Jaffa port

view north towards Tel Aviv from Jaffa Port

sunset view of Jaffa Port

Arab women along beach pathway looking south

sunset view from HaTachana looking west

renovated building at HaTachana

"Keren" shop in Neve Tzedek

No trip to Israel is complete without visiting Neve Tzedek. Every time I visit, there are more shops, restaurants and new apartments cropping up everywhere. Tiny spaces that were once parking lots and alleys have been converted to upscale boutiques, ice cream parlors and shops. One of my favorite shops is "Keren". With designs by Keren Wolf, the boutique showcases hand made vintage jewels. It is a delight to browse and meander through the unique decor and interesting pieces. A must see on Shabazi Street.
Not far from Neve Tzedek is HaTachana, Tel Aviv's old railway station. Originally built in 1892 as the terminus for the Jaffa-Jerusalem railway, the site fell into decay. Recently, the transformation has become of the of Tel Aviv's hottest spots to congregate. Located between Neve Tzedek and the sea, afternoons and evenings bring locals and tourists to eat, shop, browse and shmooze.
Earlier in the day, I decided to walk along the Tel Aviv Promenade, always a favorite activity of mine. Since my last visit to Israel, the walk path has been extended. One never tires walking along the Tayelet which borders the sea. Jaffa Port is a wonderful place to stop and take a break. Restaurants, cafes and bars dot the area. Old warehouses and shipyards have been converted to public spaces and the entire area welcomes pedestrians.

Tel Aviv - June 20, 2011

Free Gilad Shalit -- seen in Neve Tzedek

June bride

the happy couple

fresh veggies in G Market

Bob Dylan concert @ Ramat Gan Stadium

After a long 14 1/2 hour flight from Los Angeles to Tel Aviv, I finally arrived at Ben Gurion Airport. After collecting my bags, I proceeded to the newly built car rental facility at the airport. New service included a shuttle bus with a driver that actually helped load bags onto the bus and helped with unloading them at the car rental booth. This might not seem like anything special, but on previous trips, there was no driver assistance. One had to shlep your bags onto the bus and off the bus -- not an easy feat if traveling with several bags!
After a few hours rest, I managed to get myself ready to drive to the Ramat Gan Stadium to see Bob Dylan in concert. After finding parking (no easy feat), I walked the distance to the stadium. After some confusion, I found my assigned seat. It was rather far from the stage -- sitting on simple folding chairs in the middle of a row. As soon as the music began, people began leaving their seats and rushing closer to the stadium. Let's just say it was "meshigeh". No one was seated and people were dancing in the aisles. Maybe this was a typical Israel concert scene.....no one seemed to follow the rules in spite of security trying to restore order. The music was great and Dylan performed his usual songs. All in all, quite the Israeli concert experience.
The following morning, I went to the market in the G mall and stocked up on fresh produce. Summer fruits and veggies were available and I couldn't wait to taste them.
In the evening, I went on my daily evening stroll and decided to visit "HaTachana", the Hebrew name for the old Jaffa railway station. It has recently been transformed into one of Tel Aviv's most popular public spaces. Here one can find cafes, restaurants and boutiques all in a wonderful, historic setting. June is the month for brides, all over the world, and that includes Israel. I saw numerous couples being photographed in their bridal attire. It seems as if bridal wear (for women) is as extravagant in Israel as it is back home.
On the way back to my car, I passed through Neve Tzedek and noticed some graffiti on the wall saying "Free Gilad Shalit", the Israeli soldier that has been kept in captivity for over five years. The reminders of the cruelty of Israel's neighbors are once again exposed.

Tel Aviv, Israel - January 14, 2011

Caffe Tazza D'Oro - good cappucinno and pastries

Shabazi Alley - off Shabazi Street - Neve Tzedek

Am Yisrael Chai - graffiti signs all over Neve Tzedek

Neve Tzedek

Shakshuka breakfast @ Benedict in Tel Aviv

Benedict Restaurant on Ben Yehuda St.- Tel Aviv

I have pretty much spent most of the morning catching up on my sleep from the long flight from LA. I decided to begin my morning with an Israeli breakfast. Several friends recommended Benedict, known for their amazing breakfasts and brunches. It's a good find since it's open 24/7. I decided to walk towards the sea and go to the branch on Ben Yehuda Street. I wasn't disappointed. Usually I would order an Israeli salad which comes with delicious breads and yogurt, but today I decided to try the shakshuka. My meal arrived on a hot skillet and was delicious. Shakshuka are eggs cooked in tomato sauce, onions and spices. It definitely woke me up!! I haven't been there, but there is a restaurant in Old Jaffa called "Dr. Shakshuka" which I'll have to try next time I'm in Tel Aviv.
After breakfast I took a cab down to Neve Tzedek, the oldest part of Tel Aviv. Shabazi Street is the main drag and it's always fun to check it out. Cute boutiques, wine bars, restaurants and unique gift shops line the narrow road. Tourists and locals come often to enjoy the ambiance and quiet of this enchanting neighborhood. Each time I return to the area, it becomes more upscale and gentrified. Old, shoddy buildings become newly renovated and there are cranes to be seen everywhere. A great place to stop for a cappuccino and pastry is Caffe Tazza D'Oro, tucked behind Shabazi Street on Ahad Ha'am St. The mood is casual and the coffee outstanding. After being fortified, I continued my walk toward the Promenade by the sea. Watching and listening to the sounds and sights of the sea is one of my pastimes, and again the Promenade didn't disappoint. There is something soothing and calming walking along the boardwalk in the middle of winter and enjoying the clean, crisp air along the sea.