Tel Aviv - Rome March 12, 2010

Via del Babuino - lovely street

peering into windows of Bottega Veneta

rooftops of Rome

typical street scene - Rome

While I ate breakfast this morning, I decided to check airline fares to various cities in Europe. Israel is just a few hours away from most major European cities and I was hoping to find a special last-minute fare to Paris, Rome, or even London. I checked the weather in those cities and decided that Rome would be the most temperate of the three. While checking Alitalia's fares and their schedules (Rome is only a short 3 hour flight away), I decided to take advantage of their $250 roundtrip fare and spend the weekend in Rome. I packed a small carry-on bag with just the basics and within a few hours I was waiting for my flight at Ben Gurion airport. I love the idea of just getting on a plane and landing in a city with no pre-planning. After the very short flight, I landed at Fiumicino and walked to the train station where I boarded a train into the city. While on the train, I checked various hotel sites and found a small, new boutique style hotel located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza del Populo. I had stayed at the very lovely but expensive Hotel de Russie a few years ago, but I preferred something smaller and less costly but still in the same location. After reaching the center of town, I hailed a cab to take me to my hotel for the next few nights. I was pleasantly surprised when I was dropped off at Babuino 181 (the name of the hotel as well as the address located at 181 via del Babuino http://www.romeluxurysuites.com/babuino/. I walked into a small but very contemporary lobby and was greeted by reception. My double room wasn't inexpensive by any means but it was reasonable given the location and the room size. The room itself was large with a king size bed, flat screen TV, large closet, brand new bathroom with a wonderful shower and tub and lovely Italian amenities. My favorite part of the room was the Nespresso machine and various types of coffee available....what a lovely way to start my mornings. I settled in for a good night's sleep with images of what I would plan for the next few days. When in Rome, do as the Romans do!!

Tel Aviv - March 11, 2010

recycling bin on Rechov Dizengoff

UN vehicle

"Gilad" sign on boulevard

Old and New in Neve Tzedek

I woke up this morning with no special plans. Just had coffee and yogurt in my apartment and decided to take a walk on Dizengoff. It's an especially beautiful day so I'm glad that I have some free time to just roam around and discover. One of the first things that caught my eye along Dizengoff was a huge wire basket filled with empty plastic water bottles. What a simple idea! Just place a container in the middle of a street filled with pedestrians and you've got a wonderful and easy way for people to recycle their empty bottles. I love it! I began to notice them everywhere I walked, even in the middle of neighborhoods filled with apartment buildings. This is one of the reasons it's wonderful to walk the streets -- it's a great way to see things that you wouldn't normally pay attention to if you were in a car or bus. Another interesting sight that caught my eye was the appearance of cars and SUV's with the "UN" emblem. We all know that the UN is involved in the Middle East but it's not often that Americans see UN vehicles on the road. Just another reminder that you are in Israel. As I continued my stroll, I eventually made my way to the Beach Promenade. Somehow, I always end up on this stretch of walking path. The beach is such an integral part of the city that it just feels calming to walk this route. Along the way towards Jaffa, I noticed a colorful display spelling out the words "Gilad". This refers to Gilad Schalit, the young IDF soldier who was kidnapped and is being held by Hamas. Again, another reminder that this is not a country at peace. In spite of the beauty and the seeming normalcy of life, there exists an undercurrent of instability that every once in a while rears it's ugly head. I finally realized that my feet were desperate for a rest. Being near Neveh Tzedek, I took a turn onto a side street to look for a coffee shop where I could sit and have a snack. At one point, I looked upwards and glanced towards the sky. I saw old and new buildings appearing together. This sightdescribes the city of Tel Aviv -- an old city yearning to be contemporary at the same time.

Tel Aviv - March 9, 2010

minaret in Jaffa

monks in Jerusalem

star of David on paddle

Israel Defense Forces

Israeli flag hanging from apartment balcony

Israeli flag among fresh veggies

IDF Forces in Jerusalem

One of the most fascinating things about traveling is one's heightened sense of awareness of one's new surroundings. Every detail becomes interesting -- it's as if you are suddenly bombarded with different sensations. Even a simple stroll in a new neighborhood brings with it a sense of newness and adventure. Simply observing becomes an adventure.

There are several of these "simple observations" that occurred to me while in Israel that seem unique to the country that I would like to summarize briefly.

Israel is a deeply patriotic country with much pride and heritage. Even though the political spectrum is vast and opinions vary on almost every subject imaginable, Israelis are proud of their country and are not at all shy about showing their patriotism. I came upon the Israeli flag in some of the most unusual places. I could find the blue Star of David flag in the middle of a food display in the Carmel Market, along the shores of the beach in Tel Aviv, hanging from a Jerusalem porch balcony, and enlarged to form the side of a building in Tel Aviv.

The Israeli Defense Forces, known as the IDF or Zahal, is an integral part of Israeli society. Every young man and woman is required to serve for three years in the IDF with some exceptions. Because of this, one can often see young people in the streets of Israel wearing army fatigues and toting rifles -- not something usually seen in the streets of the US, Canada, or Europe. Groups of young army members are often seen walking casually and leisurely among regular pedestrians. It does take some getting used to to see this striking sight. I often think of the parents of these young people and the courage they must face to know that their children are defending their homeland.

The constant reminder of the spiritual and religious significance of the country cannot be underestimated. Whether in the cities or villages, there are constant reminders that this is indeed the Holy Land. Signs and symbols of the three main religions can be found throughout the country.

Back to Tel Aviv, March, 8, 2010

camels on hill on road from Dead Sea to Tel Aviv

Muza Restaurant & Sports Bar

Corten Steel Ribbon Facade of Holon Design Museum

Holon Design Museum

After my relaxing time at the Dead Sea, I began my drive back to Tel Aviv. The roads leading up to the highway were a bit windy but definitely manageable. I stopped a few times at scenic stops to take photos of the Dead Sea from above. Road signs in Israel are easy to read and written in three languages - Hebrew, English and Arabic - so getting around by car, even without a GPS, is relatively easy. I stopped for gas at a local gas station in a town named Arad. Little did I know that I would find a wonderful shop filled with skin products including a relatively new brand called "Yes, to Carrots". Of course, I had to fill up on all kinds of products to take home with me. I decided to stop for lunch at a restaurant called "Muza". Located next to the "Alon" gas station, on road 31, Muza's complete menu included soups, pastas, pizzas and delicious salads. I was surprised to see the sports memorabilia on all walls and ceilings, and I could have been at any sports bar anywhere in the world at that moment. I had a delicious tuna salad that was definitely large enough for two people - highly recommended. You can check out their website www.muza-arad.co.il. I made my way back to Tel Aviv in time for a late dinner and completely relaxed from my short trip away.

The next morning, I took a stroll along Rechov Dizengoff and after stopping at the "Natural Market" for yogurt and dried fruit snacks, I stepped into one of my favorite stores in Tel Aviv, The Bauhaus Center located at 99 Dizengoff St. (www.bauhaus-center.com). Here one can find a wide variety of resources on the "Bauhaus" style with specific information on Tel Aviv. The store sells books, videos, maps, posters, jewelry and Judaica. The upstairs gallery shows documentary exhibitions on Tel Aviv. The Center also conducts walking tours throughout the city of prominent "Bauhaus" buildings built during the 1930's and 1940's. Across the street there is a delicious restaurant serving great coffee and wonderful health salads and sandwiches. If you get the chance, stop in at one of the Landwers chain of restaurants. You will be greeted with quick service, free wi-fi and delicious food.

With a few hours left in my day, I decided to visit one of the new museums in Holon, the Design Museum. It was designed by Ron Arad, an internationally known architect. The building, which extends over a total of 2,700 square meters, is the first design exhibit encountered by visitors. The five bands of Corten weathering steel wind their way in, out and around the museum. The museum's two main galleries allow for a wide range of curatorial activities. Design Museum Holon serves as a hub for innovation in the field of design. Alongside the museum, a Material Library services professional architects and designers. Another must-see museum just a few kilometers from Tel Aviv.

Old City, Jerusalem, March 5, 2010

Religious Jews Pondering

Jaffa Gate - an entrance into the Old City

numbered stones to aid in reconstruction

Third Station of the Cross

There is nothing more awe inspiring than walking through the Old City. It is extraordinarily special and I discover something new each time I walk through the courtyards and the winding alleyways. I often stay at the David Citadel Hotel and walk through the new Alrov Mamilla mall to get to Jaffa Gate. It is perhaps the most "authentic" of malls since the builders obviously went to great pains to maintain the ancient feeling of the stone facades. Of course, this is in huge contrast to the contemporary art, souvenir, and restaurants that line this pedestrian mall.

Upon entering the mall, you see the familiar retail establishments including Steimatsky's (wonderful bookstore), Aroma and Rimonin (restaurants), Ronen Chen and Naot (clothing and shoes), and of course H. Stern (exquisite jewelry). It is interesting to note the numbers of some of the stone buildings. These are original stones that have been numbered to aid in reconstructing the buildings. Families and couples, Jews and Arabs love to promenade through the Mall making it a very popular meeting place for all. After climbing the stairs and gazing at the amazing view of the Old City walls, Jaffa Gate beckons you into the city. There are the souvenir and food shops of the Arab Shuk, the narrow road through the Armenian quarter, and the stone stairways eventually getting you to the Cardo and the Jewish Quarter. Again, you can find numerous souvenir and jewelry stores as well as kiosks and restaurants. It is hard to imagine that the Jewish Quarter of this ancient city was in ruins before it was recaptured from Jordan in 1967. One really believes that this sacred piece of land truly belongs to all faiths -- the Via Dolorosa, the Stations of the Cross, the Kotel, and the Dome of the Rock represent the convergence of all faiths into this one ancient and magnificent city.